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Write Up:
4 of us headed out at 7am on a crisp Saturday morning. The casual walk down cougar canyon to the ridge proved to be a nice warm up. We enjoyed a quick relax, and handful of nuts at the Stone Camp Fire circle.
Just beyond the stone circle we headed up the ridge. The trail is hit and miss for the first bit, as there are many ways up. About 1/2 hour, up you'll be able to track the trail up.
You can see the 1st roped pitch a while before you get there. This pitch is not obvious , so get beta to find it. Its an easy pitch on some slab with tufa bands. Up a few moves in a groove to a ledge on the right. Find a piton here. Follow around the ledge and go up to a tree belay. This can be done in three 30 meter, or less, pitches.
You have about a 45min hike/scramble to the 2nd pitch.
You also see the 2nd pitch a long way off. To finally access the second pitch you follow a trail up and right. When it obviously goes left, and up a short tricky few steps, then you follow the base of the cliff back down a bit. You'll see a crack that goes up. Its about a 30 meter pitch to two bolts. We placed a few small cams.
Now you are at the base of the ridge. Another 45mins hiking and scrambling on the knife edge.
It was my first ridge like this, and was very cool ;)
We knew its been bolted across the knife edge, but someone removed the hangers and nuts. So don't count on them for protection. We short roped across some and short pitched some. The weather was great, so no iffy sections.
The last pitch to gain the the top follows the left crack. An easy climb, but we placed two cams for protection. There is a single bolted belay just over the top on a low 2ft high rock.
All home safe. A highly recommended fun fun scramble. Allan and Evelyn Mathies, Charlene Anthony, and Les Berezowski (scribe). Thank you Evelyn for coordinating and leading this trip, good work.
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